HEREFORDSHIRE has dozens of village churches which amply repay the effort of seeking them out. They are the most important human feature in the county's rural landscape. Rural churches tell the story of England through the centuries. In their monuments, their wonderful stained-glass windows and their widely varying architectural styles, they are monuments to 40 generations of Herefordshire farming communities. Herefordshire contains some quite contrasting architectural gems which are noted far beyond the county's boundaries.

Kilpeck, for example, is one of the finest small Norman churches in all England, noticed particularly for the intricacy of its carved door-frame and the external frieze running right round the building. A few of the mre boisterous figures were removed by prudish Victorians!

The Italianate church at Hoarwithy (seen inset)

is quite unexpected in a peaceful riverside village. Its tall, four-story campanile soars above the rooftops, looking more like something in Tuscany than in the Wye Valley. At Shobdon, the Norman chancel arches are now in the care of a trust. They were removed from the church in the mid-18th century when Viscount Bateman built the present church.

An extraordinary confection of Wedgwood blue and white, it is Herefordshire's example of the short-lived fashion for Strawberry Hill Gothick architecture. At Brockhampton by Ross, a thatched church of 1902 sits happily in its garden-like churchyard. Inside, all is arts and crafts movement, including a tapestry designed by Burne-Jones.

Finally, do not miss Herefordshire's detached belfries. Of 40 in all England, nine are in the county. They range from the solid stone, pagoda-like structures at Pembridge (seen at top of page) and Yarpole to the timber-framed structures such as Holmer.