Cabbage has come a long way since the days of soggy school dinners. MAXINE GORDON reports on a reputation revolution

BOILED, soggy and tasteless. If that's your memory of cabbage then it's time to think again.

That's the message from local veg entrepreneur Eleanor Fletcher who insists cabbage's time is now.

Did you know that cabbage is one of the most sustainable foods you can choose? And if you are doing Veganuary or just trying to include more greens in your diet, there are some seriously sexy recipes out there to try.

Not sure? Well Eleanor's job is to convince you otherwise.

The York-based mum-of-one runs the Riverford Organic Farmers service for York and the East Riding, delivering veg boxes to 550 people each week.

She says: "Against the backdrop of Veganuary and the pressures of climate change, many people are actively seeking a more sustainable diet. "One thing is very clear: eating seasonally is a great way to feed your family sustainably. And this is where the humble cabbage steps in.

"A little-known fact is that there is a variety of UK cabbage in season every day of the year."

She said organic cabbages were always grown outdoors and very rarely imported.

"Choosing to eat more cabbage is a great way to reduce food miles, boost your health and have a delicious option on your plate.

"Cabbage is also a very cost-effective vegetable for those trying to juggle a family food budget."

Eleanor is keen to entice people to try and eat cabbage most days. “Cabbage is very versatile,” says Eleanor, adding: “it’s also very easy to prepare and cook. Give it a try with these recipes or quick ideas and you might surprise yourself!”

Cabbages are a key component of the veg box range from Riverford Organic Farmers, find out more at riverford.co.uk.

Get some cookery inspiration – Eleanor hosts Riverford Organics Master Veg classes in the York area for people who are interested in trialling a veg box delivery. The next class is scheduled for Tuesday, March 10, in St Olave’s Church Hall, Marygate, York. Tickets are £40 and available on Eventbrite.

Cabbage recipes from Riverford

For super-quick and easy dishes, try these two options for cabbage as a side:

Roast cabbage

Remove outer leaves and cut whole cabbage into wedges with the root intact. Drizzle/brush with olive oil and place in a roasting tin, add approx. 50-100ml of water/stock/cider/white wine and bake in a 180°C oven for 20-30 minutes.

Stir-fried cabbage

Remove outer leaves and cut out stalk, finely shred the cabbage. Heat 1-2tbsp of oil and rapidly stir-fry the cabbage for 3-5 minutes. Try adding extra flavours: Eleanor’s favourite is a crushed clove of garlic plus a sprinkle of chilli flakes and a tiny splash of sesame oil towards the end.

Toasted seed and tahini slaw

serves 4-6 as a side (use plant-derived yoghurt to make this vegan)

Mixed toasted seeds add extra crunch, flavour and nutrients to coleslaw. You needn’t stick to cabbage and carrots – try grating any other root veg you have in your box. This one’s good served with chicken wings and potato wedges.

4 tbsp mixed seeds (e.g. sunflower, sesame, pumpkin, linseed)

4 tbsp plain yoghurt

1 garlic clove, crushed or grated

1 tbsp light tahini (sesame) paste

juice of 1 lemon

½ Savoy cabbage, core and tough ribs removed, leaves very finely shredded

2 carrots, peeled and coarsely grated

1 small or ½ larger onion (red or white), very finely sliced

salt and black pepper

Toast the mixed seeds in a dry frying pan for 1–2 minutes over a medium heat, until fragrant. Mix the yoghurt, garlic, tahini and lemon juice in a large bowl. Add the cabbage, carrot, onion and toasted seeds, season with salt and pepper and toss gently to combine.

Variation: This also works well with shredded red cabbage.

Keralan cabbage thoran

Serves 2 (vegan)

This is a dry cabbage stir-fry that is delicious eaten with just a poppadum or two. Cabbage pairs brilliantly with chilli, mustard seeds and ginger and this dish is one of many regional Indian variations on the theme. Don’t worry if you don’t have the curry leaves or coconut – the recipe will work well without them.

2 tbsp sunflower or

3 tbsp coconut oil or vegetable oil

2 tsp black mustard seeds

10 fresh curry leaves, roughly chopped (optional)

1 tsp cumin seeds

2 dried red chillies, each broken into several pieces

30g (or 4cm piece) fresh ginger, peeled and very finely grated

2 fresh green bird’s-eye chillies, sliced into very thin rounds, with seeds

½ tsp ground turmeric

good pinch of salt

½ tsp coarsely ground black pepper

250g hispi or pointed spring cabbage (or spring greens), shredded into 5mm pieces

2 carrots, peeled and cut into fine matchsticks or coarsely grated

100g fresh grated coconut, or 2 tbsp desiccated coconut (optional)

handful of fresh coriander

leaves, finely chopped

juice of ½ lemon (optional)

Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan or wok over a medium heat, and, when hot, add the mustard seeds followed by the curry leaves (if using), cumin seeds and dried chillies. Stir for about 30 seconds, then add the ginger, fresh chilli, turmeric, salt and pepper and fry for another 30 seconds. Watch out – the mustard seeds will pop and spit. Stir in the cabbage and carrots and cook, covered, over a medium heat for 5–7 minutes, until the vegetables are tender, adding a splash of water if they start to stick to the pan. Scatter over the coconut, if using, and coriander and sprinkle with the lemon juice (if using) then serve.

Variation: You don’t have to stick to cabbage – this will make a light, healthy dinner with any of your veg box greens – spinach, chard, kale or even shredded Brussels sprouts.