Herefordshire News, Hereford News, - From The Hereford Times

Hi, I’m Bob Thompson, I find and document indigenous horse games and their place in the local society in Africa and Asia. I am going to Mali, Burkina Faso and Senegal to trace the last remnants of some of the equine cultures that once stretched across the plains and mountains south of the Sahara.

I use local transport and carry all my equipment. Because little or nothing has been written about the subject, there is no chance to forward plan; so I go to a country, find out the areas that have horses and proceed there to make my enquiries.

Yerevan, capital of Armenia

Armenia, a country steeped in history has a modern capital,

Lucky escape

A visit to Kazbegi

Autumn in Tbilisi

The sudden arrival of an early autumn

Tbilisi

Those freshly arrived in Tbilisi could think that they have walked onto the set of a gangster film by mistake. Most of the men are dressed in black. Large men,, who look like minders wear black Tshirts, black shirts and black trousers. The days of when a hotel lobby had a notice saying 'pistols may be kept, but submachine guns must be handed in at the desk'have long gone. Women too tend to wear black skirts ot trousers and the older ones have ankle-length black dressed and scarves. The city itself is built on both sides of the river Mtkvari. Houses and churches perch on the cliff above the river on the 'left bank'. while on the other side a huge citadel dominates its surroundings from the top of a high almost vertical hill. There is massive new building going on in the Old Town, but great care is being taken to make sure the modern blends with the old. They are used to rebuilding, over the ages the Seljuk Turks, Mongols, Persians and Ottomans have all sacked the town. There are pictures in many of the churches of the Muslims beheading the Christians who wouldn't convert. This religious oppression has led to a strongly devout Orthodox church. On Saturday evenings and Sundays the churches ,are packed. The congregation stand and because of the length of some of the services the worshipers can come and go as they please. All the women cover their heads and many people cross themselves three times when they pass a church. Everyone is welcome, I walked in on a baptism, as did several others, but neither the priest nor the parents minded. In the next couple of days I will be going up into the mountains to talk to some horsemen. The mountain people are a law unto themselves, having not really been bothered by the invaders who were prepared to pay local warlords to protect their flsnks. The temperature change will be quite a shock, it is a muggy 30 here, but up there they are only a few days off the first snows.

Off again to new countries

I am off to Armenia and Georgia (Russia)in search of more horse sports

Return from French West Africa

Some of the beliefs and customs I came across in Mali and Burkina Faso

Getting there and away

Travel in Africa is always contains a level of uncertainty, so one has to be patient and accept that a six hour journey can take twelve or the bus might not go when you are told it does.

Traditional Horsemen

It is difficult to find traditional horsemen In Mali and Burkina Faso because they live deep in the countryside and are not interested in telling the secrets of their ways to outsiders.

Guides

Help from a gentleman guide after being deserted in Dogon country

A mud city

Looking for horsemen in a city made of mud

Journey to Djenne

Although the extreme heat is over, it still tries all those who travel

Searching for horse games in Africa

I am looking for what is left of a vibrant equine culture that once existed in Mali and Burkina Faso