FRANCIS Kilvert loved nothing better than a solitary tramp through the Wye Valley in the lea of the Black Mountains.

It was usually the colours which fascinated him; the prospects of Hay Bluff, Lord Hereford’s Knob and Y Das were seldom just “black”.

“An apple tree whose bright red boughs and shoots stood up in beautiful contrast against the light blue mountain and grey town and the blue valley”: and “the sun set in a crimson ball behind the hills or rather into a dense ball of dark blue vapour. In the afterglow scarlet feathers floated in the sky, and the gorse deepened into a richer red gold in the sunset light.”

In his diary for 29th April, 1876, he muses on a meeting with Florence Hill, whom he’d taught at school.

“After luncheon I walked to Wye Cliff, home of the Crichtons, in heavy rain. At the top of Longlands Pitch, just before I reached the crossroads and the lane leading to Boatside, I saw a tall slight girl coming towards me in a long grey cloak. In another moment I recognised the clustering curls of golden brown hair falling upon her shoulders and the gleam of those lovely innocent blue eyes, and once more I was dazzled by the beauty of Florence Hill. Flushed with the rain and the wind she was walking alone wrapped in her long grey cloak but with no umbrella to shelter her lovely head from the driving storm. I wanted her to take my umbrella but she gently yet firmly refused saying she would take shelter with her aunt at Clyro. So we parted for a little time, I knowing, though she did not, in how short a while we should meet again”.

Later in the day the curate followed the river from Wye Cliff to Llowes. From there he found his way up to the Upper Noyadd farmhouse of the Hill family.

“The girls have got your poetry which came out in the Hereford Times”, said Mr Hill smiling.

“The Rocks of Aberedw and Clyro Water. They are very fond of the verses and they often read them. The rhymes all come in so beautiful, and young people are fond of poetry.”

Then his wife took Kilvert over to the window to see the view down the dingle through the blossoming plum trees in front of the house to the distant mountains, the Wyeside meadows and the sinuous river.

“Cut” to the walking diary for May 28, 2015 and we can take in the same views from the path above Llowes.

We thought we’d get there by first catching the bus for the short journey to Glasbury; then ramble back along the Wye Valley Walk to Hay. This 6 mile stretch gives a great perspective of Kilvert’s “blue” mountains from hazel-lined banks, and keeps close company with his “flashing” river at the beginning and the end.

In the middle we pass a sundial dedicated to him at St Mellig’s, and the story is complete for book and poetry lovers in Hay.

At the end of May, the palette is loaded with the brasher colours of the Literary Festival. Banners, pennants and multi-coloured kiosks line the Brecon Road approach to the marquee event. There’s a chance to put a signed edition of Pam Ayres’s “I wish I’d looked after me teeth” next to Kilvert’s Diary in your rucksack.

Like other National Trails, the Wye Valley Walk sometimes involves walking the grass verge of a major road. For 10 minutes after point 2, you may not emulate Kilvert praising the joys of rambling to a man whistling on a passing carthorse. But persevere on our first linear walk together. It’s the variety which will keep you interested.

Glasbury, Llowes and Hay.

Wye Valley Walk with great views to the Black Mountains. Riverbank, town, village and field.

6 miles, linear. Moderate. One stile. Good terrain, with a wide grass verge along very busy road.

Map: OL 13, Brecon Beacons, eastern area.

Public transport: Bus no. 39. £3.30 fare to Glasbury.

The Route

Hay-on-Wye. Take 39B bus from Oxford Road to Glasbury, perhaps at 10.08 or 12.38 on a weekday. 1. Glasbury 39 Bus Shelter. Walk back towards Hay and TL across bridge, as if for Hereford. At far end, TR down 9 steps along Wye Valley Walk for Llowes. Follow riverside path past treatment works, through 2 gates and at high signpost bear L across field and driveway to road.

2. A438. Follow wide grass verge of busy road for 700m to a point most of the way around R bend. Cross road so as to turn L up “No through road”. Climb track R past empty longhouse, and barns. Leave main farm track, slightly R along stone wall. Soon fork R through copse, beloved of Kilvert, and emerge across uneven stretch at gate. (Llowes Church ahead). Keep ahead down bank through 3 gates and 2 paddocks to road in village. TR. Cross “weak bridge” (L) into churchyard.

3. St Mellig’s Church, Llowes. (Find sun dial donated by Kilvert Society). Pass to R of church and out through gate ahead of you. Find WVW Board and go L up bank, sweeping R along farm track quite steeply into Fron Wood. (Map B). Cross stile, keep along top L edge of bank, through gate, bear R in next pasture and pass through small walkers’ gate below farm. Cross narrow strip to a post, turn R down pasture with hedge L and go through gate. Now go quite steeply down, skirting bottom edge of conifers up to your L, to gate at bottom L of field, by road.

4. Road Crossing. Cross and go straight ahead down to riverbank. TL along WVW for 1 mile. At a cottage (R), go L along the drive and TR across F/bridge after 100m. Go up stony walled track behind (what is) Wye Cliff. Go through gate along L edge of field to road.

5. TR over Hay Bridge to Three Tuns, R along Broad Street and L at clock tower along The Pavement and up to Hay Cheese Market . TR along High Town. TL at Blue Boar, cross to Bus Stop.